Hobby Tip: Sculptamould/DIY Analog Great for terrain. A mixture of paper pulp & plaster, it can be applied thicker then poly-filler, does not have the cracking issue & the fiber makes it robust. Use it to build up/add uneven earth and rubble. #Pantmongertutes #WarhammerCommunity - ThreadSky

pantmonger.bsky.social • 62 days ago

Hobby Tip: Sculptamould/DIY Analog
Great for terrain. A mixture of paper pulp & plaster, it can be applied thicker then poly-filler, does not have the cracking issue & the fiber makes it robust.
Use it to build up/add uneven earth and rubble.
#Pantmongertutes #WarhammerCommunity

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dforge.bsky.social•61 days ago

Is a similar product called Celluclay. Same paper macheted pulpy fiber like material. Mix with water.. You can add a little PVA glue into the mix and it makes it even harder when dry and adheres better.

pantmonger.bsky.social•62 days ago

By varying the amount of water you add it can be a lumpy rolling dirt like material, or smoothed down like plaster. Scatter can be pushed into it, or basing material added post. It is slow to fully dry (24+ hours thickness depending, if its colder then its surrounds, its not dry)

pantmonger.bsky.social•61 days ago

Here is some pushed and shaped with a palette knife around a bit of plant terrain, and a shot of it after after it was coated with a texture paint, and detailed.
The mound of earth built up on the lowest fence as also made with the material.

pantmonger.bsky.social•61 days ago

A caution: The working time is short. Only 10min or so depending how much water you added (can be extended a little with further wetting). So if you are doing a large area with a lot of shaping as you go, mixing smaller batches as needed is probably best.

jeffvimes.bsky.social•61 days ago

Not fully related but material do you use for the base of your terrain?

pantmonger.bsky.social•61 days ago

3mm MDF
Its thin enough that it can be cut with multiple (careful) passes with a robust box cutter and steel rule. Can be beveled or shaped with a rotary tool drum sander and is cheap to buy at most hardware shops.

jeffvimes.bsky.social•61 days ago

Thanks! No wrapping issue ? I guess with the building and basing material it's probably quite strong actually.

pantmonger.bsky.social•61 days ago

Actually just made a thread about it to cover this :)
But short answer, I have not had any issues if there is something inflexible on top, such as plastic terrain, which inhibits it. Clamping while PVA is drying however can be good for larger areas.
https://bsky.app/profile/did:plc:vuppos3pay6loqk6lthyac6j/post/3lgfb3ovyps22

jeffvimes.bsky.social•61 days ago

Sorry I should have done my research on your profile before asking! Thanks for answering.

pantmonger.bsky.social•61 days ago

Don't stress it, I only just wrote it due to a few folks asking.
It was probably only going up when you asked :)

hermeticopus.bsky.social•61 days ago

Additional suggestion: for heavy wear items (if the terrain is for a club or store, for example) you can mix a little black or brown ink/paint into the mix.

This dyes the sculptamould all the way through (though it'll be grey rather than black), and makes any chipped areas much less noticeable.

pantmonger.bsky.social•61 days ago

That makes sense, nice addition. Tinting the water with ink would probably be a solid go to also.
Will keep this in mind and play further.

hermeticopus.bsky.social•61 days ago

It is, like a lot of my recent terrain knowledge, stolen straight from Black Magic Craft. For example (hopefully linking to the right time stamp):

https://youtu.be/Mn2fmMdn-rA?si=vJ1Em5yMopfOqjQl&t=378

techbotalpha.bsky.social•61 days ago

Dang, those look great!

pantmonger.bsky.social•61 days ago

Thanks.
I did 3 in the set. These were the other 2.
My first attempt was just with the ruins and a little rubble, and it looked really wrong. Filling the cavity with rubble was the ticket

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