whackerdashery.com
Foamfighting and foamsmithing enthusiast.
Working on creating in-depth and up-to-date documentation on crafting standards/techniques and material sourcing for full contact weapons for foamfighting sports: https://wiki.whackerdashery.com
112 posts
40 followers
86 following
Regular Contributor
Active Commenter
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Fuck, Sorry, Bill seems like an interesting twist on Fuck, Marry, Kill.
Fuck being the normal thing you'd expect, Sorry being apologizing to someone, and Bill being sending them an invoice.
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Recently had an argument with a lot of old heads in the Belegarth community because there is a gatekeeping mentality around needing garb to be considered a "real" belegrim. Garb can be fun, but it's literally the least important part. If the bat whacks, it's a foamfighter.
#AllGasNoGates
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I primarily run with the Belegarth crowd, but crossgame as needed. I sidestep any role play aspects, regardless. I'm there to make cool shit and fight.
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Only suntimes.
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Would have also been silly to go spend money on a half-assed fix that would have just seen a different part of the hose go bad (if it was valid in the first place) when all I needed to do was prevent it from dripping for a week till the landlord could replace it, with *their* money.
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The leak I was dealing with wasn't one that could be "found" for a fix like that. I need to replace the whole hose. It's braided metal over rubber, ostensibly, and the liquid was bleeding out relatively evenly through the braided metal.
I also didn't need a fan.
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Did similar to abate a leak on the water supply line to my toilet. Just wrapped a paper towel around it and put a dish underneath. Was dripping and building up on the floor, seeping under the trim, dripping into the basement. Now it doesn't even make it into the dish, evaporates too fast.
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www.usatoday.com/story/news/n...
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A lack of boffer sword safe for full-contact/sufficient-force sports.
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Ashen.
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I am open to facilitating group orders for Sword Knight Boot Camp, Armageddon, and Oktfest this year. Cost (per tube and for shipping per tube) would go down as size of order went up.
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From me:
About $30-40 per tube, plus shipping costs if necessary.
If you get from me, it is only cheaper up to a point. That point is reached faster if you can't do in-person pickup and again as shipping goes up for length. I'm also limiting what I stock until this is self-funding and can scale.
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From manufacturer:
Tubes cost about their OD in dollars at 2000mm and $4 more at 2500mm. Ex: 16mm*12mm, $16 @ 2000mm, $20 @ 2500mm.
Then you add shipping, which is generally around $50, and the over-length fee of $45 if you got anything over 1.2m.
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If you want to save money ordering them directly from the supplier and don't *need* longer tubes, you can order them at shorter lengths (<= 1.2 meters) and not have the $45 over-length fee. This can make a big difference.
It'd be cheaper to order two 3.9ft tubes than one 8.2ft tube, for example.
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Order specs
- 14mm*10mm: javelins under 84", blues
- 15mm*11mm: spears under 84", reds under 60"
- 16mm*12mm: spears under 106", reds under 84"
- 17mm*13mm: spears under 144", reds under 106"
- 12.8mm*8mm*300mm: coupler insert for 17mm tube
note: 15mm is only available up to 2000mm
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The supplier: dzhuikai.en.alibaba.com
Need to know:
- tubes are designated OD*ID*Length
- OD=outer diameter
- ID=inner diameter
- can be up to 2.5 meters long
- can be connected to make longer tubes
- connection should be closer to pommel than tip
- only recommending 17mm for extension
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A few moments ago I had no idea who you were, but now I'm all but certain you are the dept head in charge of community bug reports for Halo Studios.
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Will share plans when I finally have it built and have a chance to work out kinks!
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Design Considerations:
- should be able to be built almost entirely out of 1x2 and 1/2" ply
- should be able to be built with no glue
- the thin parts of the guide arms should be metal
- overall trough dimensions 5"x3.75"x48"
- using only table saw, miter saw, jigsaw, drill
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Use:
- bond the end of two strips of foam together
- clamp this end down at one end of the trough
- thread the upper strip through the ramp assembly
- set the guides and as needed
- turn on the heat gun, allowing it to warm up
- slowly, but steadily, pull the carriage the length of the trough
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Not Pictured:
- a heat gun would be mounted on the open space of the carriage, with the nozzle aimed at the opening between the carriage base and the ramp
- the faces exposed to heat would be coated in heat resistant/reflecting materials
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Image 8: Bond Plate
- brings the foam strips together and applies even pressure
- adjusts via sliding up and down on bolt using channel
- tighten wing nut on bolt to fix in place
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Image 7: Crossbeam
- 2nd foam strip is threaded between this and ramp
- clamps guide arms in place
- acts as mounting point for bond plate
- bolts stick out of standoffs with springs on them, wingnuts to adjust tightness
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Image 6: Guide Arms
- keep strips of foam aligned horizontally
- rest "loose" between ramp and crossbeam, clamped by beam
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Image 4: Ramp
- 2nd strip of foam rests against this
- opening for heated air to hit foam on way to bond location
Image 5: Ramp Standoffs
- serve same purpose as trough walls, but for 2nd strip
- act as mounting points for crossbeam
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Image 1: Trough
- acts as rails for carriage
- lower strip of foam rests against floor of trough
- 3.5" wide channel
Image 2/3: Carriage
- slides along trough
- ramp mounts on front
- heat gun mounts on back
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They're so fucken round. It's beautiful.
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As for the "shirt", would expect it to be more comfortable in warm weather than real gambeson, because it would be able to breathe between the foam strips.
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Wouldn't protect you in a "rules" sense, but may just be the thing that makes the two handed thrust from a low-profile spear suck a bit less.
Might even be good groin protection if implemented in a fauld and tassets.
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Had two planned trips this year that would have been flights.
One cancelled completely, the other now happening via car.
Can't trust the FAA to keep me safe on the tarmac, much less in the air. Was already getting bad in recent years, this just made it worse.
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Thanks to the heat gun, I can't just use my 3DP for most of the parts. May eventually cast some of these parts in aluminum to reduce fire risk, but heat transference may become an issue, there.
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Changes for next design:
- Longer
- Removable walls for channel
- Adjust wall height w/ stacked layers
- Bottom wall acts as guide, set to width of strip
- Other walls act as rails for sled
- Walls stack via alignment pins
- Guide plates for sled
- Better mounting for heat gun
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OH! Now that I'm looking on my PC I can see the attempt on the blade plain as day. My b.
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I've scrolled past this 3 times. What went wrong, exactly? I still can't tell. Definition looks good, doesn't seem to have shifted during the press.