I have three reviews to go for the Obs but today, after 180 of them, is my last column for OFM. So I thought I’d summarise my searing advice from the last 15 years: the wisdom, the provocations and the occasional stupidities. Enjoy. Or grind your teeth. Your call
https://www.theguardian.com/food/2025/feb/20/jay-rayner-final-ofm-column-buffets-clean-eating-what-not-to-serve-food-on
https://www.theguardian.com/food/2025/feb/20/jay-rayner-final-ofm-column-buffets-clean-eating-what-not-to-serve-food-on
Comments
Totally.
Just one question - does anyone actually need a recipe for bechamel?
I’ve just this minute finished watching The Menu with Ralph Fiennes. If you haven’t seen it yet, let’s just say it’s probably the most cathartic film for a chef to watch.
You’ll be a big loss to the Observer, and sorry you’ll be behind an expensive paywall. But good luck anyway!
https://youtu.be/cX4KuEAYIYY
2) Spray the cloth, not the table and definitely not the adjacent tables!
LOVE this, @jayrayner1.bsky.social 😚👌🏻
"Buffets are where good taste goes to die. Most dishes can be improved with the addition of bacon"
And thank you for alerting us to the existence of the Persian Cottage in Boro. A delight.
...but I thought you couldn't make bechamel? Or are you saying you never previously bothered to read (the very short) recipe?
YES enough with your shit cabaret act that just makes me anxious you'll forget something
One comment: don't take your own loved knives abroad: take one of those efficient Aussie knife sharpeners, and leave the welcome present of sharp knives to the guests following you.